Renowned for his fine French fare, North Shore chef Michael Lachowicz puts Mexican cuisine—and his longtime partners—front and center with hip new Evanston spot FONDA Cantina.
FONDA’s artful spin on chiles rellenos
George Trois Group founder Michael Lachowicz has spent plenty of time in the Chicago dining spotlight over the past couple decades, establishing himself as one of the area’s great French chefs with notable restaurants Les Deux Gros, Le Français and Restaurant Michael as well as current Winnetka hits George Trois and Aboyer.
Chicken with red mole
For his newest venture, though, the dedicated francophile is flipping the script, embracing Mexican cuisine and putting the focus squarely on a trio of his longtime collaborators.
The inviting space—including a stunning 11-seat, pergola-topped bar—was conceived by Perpetuum Designs.
The result is FONDA Cantina, a lively concept set in downtown Evanston’s iconic former Stained Glass location and conceived by George Trois consulting chef partner Miguel Escobar and consulting partner Sergio Angel along with Lachowicz, with veteran Aboyer sous chef Carlos Cahue helming the kitchen. The menu offers sophisticated takes on home-style Mexican fare, from pork chops with pineapple habanero salsa to sofrito-glazed Lake Superior whitefish and tacos al pastor, rounded out with a selection of cocktails (margaritas and palomas are a specialty) and mocktails. It’s a new experience for Lachowicz, and he’s loving the journey.
Chicken enchiladas are among the restaurant’s tempting plates.
“It’s been exciting to watch Miguel and Sergio gel as partners and not simply as managers,” notes Lachowicz. “All the potential that FONDA has for greatness is due to their efforts. I’ve watched them blossom over the past six months into true owners and operators, all the while they’ve worked as advocates for the authenticity of their culture and cuisine. I could not be prouder to be their partner. Both Miguel and Sergio have worked with me for decades. To be allowed to participate and learn beside them has been priceless.” 1735 Benson Ave.
Photography by: FOOD IMAGES BY THOMAS GAVIN; INTERIOR PHOTO BY NEIL BURGER
