An ode to the classic French brasserie, Pomeroy makes a flavorful debut on the North Shore.
A cocktail at Pomeroy
Veteran Chicago chef Jason Paskewitz fell in love with French cuisine after attending culinary school and working in New York. After moving to Chicago more than 20 years ago, he has been honoring and developing the flavors and foods of France through multiple restaurants, including Gemini, Marchesa and The Blanchard. “I’m a Greek-Lithuanian kid from Astoria in Queens, and I’m considered one of the best French chefs in Chicago,” says Paskewitz. “That’s pretty cool.” His latest French affair? Pomeroy, a Winnetka newcomer that puts Paskewitz’s skills on full display.
Chilled seafood towers are sure to be one of Pomeroy’s most eye-catching orders.
This North Shore project is a reunion of sorts for Paskewitz and Ballyhoo Hospitality co-founder Ryan O’Donnell, who had previous success in collaborating on bistro-style Lincoln Park pub Gemini. Now with Pomeroy, they are set to have one of the area’s hottest new spots. The restaurant’s menu highlights include a chilled seafood tower, not one but three foie gras preparations (gnocchi, mousse and pan-seared), and French classics like steak frites and whole roasted chicken. The dish Paskewitz is most excited to share, though, is his take on bouillabaisse, an ode to the classic fisherman’s stew, which the chef elevates to a high-status meal with the addition of decadent lobster and shrimp. “You take that classic, peasant-style dish, and you turn it into this really regal over-the-top product,” he says.
Egg-topped frisee salad is a tempting way to start.
Paskewitz may find inspiration in classic French brasserie fare, but that doesn’t stop him from adapting the menu to fit the needs and tastes of his Chicago-based audience. He’s strayed away from heavier dishes and is offering gluten-free and lighter options such as salmon Provençal and Française salad. “That’s what this business is about,” sums up Paskewitz. “It’s not about me cooking whatever I want. It’s about giving the people what they want.” 844 Spruce St., Winnetka, pomeroywinnetka.com
Photography by: ANTHONY TAHLIER
